Replacing the OEM Air Filter (Crosland 9088) in a Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow II with a K&N E-9244

Step 1:  Remove Existing Filter
Dissembly
This entails first removing the clamp on the small hose beneath the air intake hose (This is the "heat tube"
hose that runs between an air supply pre-heater intake located over the exhaust manifold to the main air intake.). 
It is virtually impossible to get out the air filter housing/cover and the filter itself if this is not done.  After you do
this and move it out of the way, unscrew the clamp holding the air intake hose to the bracket you see near the
center of the photo and unscrew the knurled knob that holds the air filter housing/cover on.  Once the cover
is free, lift the cover & attached hose out.  At this point, you will see the large, cylindrical air filter which
is held in place by a nut and ring.  Unscrew the nut, remove the ring, then have fun getting the air filter
itself out.  You're left with the mounting rod protruding slightly from the housing; it's peeking out at
the upper right of the photo.


Step 2: Height adjustment with cork stilts (or whatever low-heatproof gasketing material you might prefer)
Open End of K&NK&N Closed EndHeight Adjustment
Place the two filters side by side on a flat, steady surface with the closed end of the K&N filter touching
the flat surface.  There is a slight height differential.  I made up for this by using cork stilts made from a
wine cork.  One could do this other ways.  I measured each stilt by placing the wine cork on the K&N
right next to the old filter then drawing a line by rotating the cork that was at the same height as the top
of the old filter.  I ended up with 3 of these, which I thought sufficient.


Step 3 - Perforating the closed end of the K&N to accomodate the rod.
Create small hole to accomodate mounting rod
I used the centering ring to locate the center on the K&N then cut a small hole using
an Xacto knife.  At first I tried to use an X-scoring instead of a hole, but upon testing
with a screwdriver that was smaller than the mounting rod, determined that this was
very likely to become torn/enlarged at the ends of the 'X' with repeated placing on and
off the rod.  Ideally, this hole would be round and just the slightest bit smaller than the
mounting rod, but I did not have any hole punches available.
  Someone pointed out
to me afterward that I could have used a drill to make the hole.  Given the texture
of the filter housing, this is probably true if one uses a wooden block directly behind
the closed end of the filter while drilling.


Step 4 - Roughen the edges of the K&N closed end to prepare for gluing
Roughen to prep for epoxy glue
The closed end of the K&N is slighly oily when taken from the box, and I cleaned this
up with Simple Green.  Once the oil is removed, you're left with a very slick surface
that doesn't hold any sort of glue too well.  I roughened the surface up and then cleaned
off all of the detritus from that operation.


Step 5 - Mix glue, set cork feet, then weight and wait.
Mix up the 5-minute epoxy
Place the feetWeight feet and wait for glue to set
I used 5-minute epoxy for this.  The K&N filter felt entirely structurally stiff enough for 3 feet, evenly spaced,
to work just fine.  Others may want more feet or to use gaskets of the correct diameter that stack to the needed
height.  The old filter made an excellent weight for the feet while the glue was setting.  It was ready to go in 15 mins.


Step 6 (Optional) - Add tape over hole to prevent tearing over time and create a better seal
Add tapeMake 'X' slit in tape
I used a bit of black duct tape for this.  I just taped over the hole and then put an 'X' slit in the tape with the Xacto knife.
My "test" showed it created a perfect seal and that when the test rod was withdrawn there was far less stress on the
rubber surrounding the hole.  If you had a perfectly round hole punched this would likely be unnecessary.


Step 7 - Affix the K&N Sticker
Affix the K&N Sticker!!
      K&N Air Filters are meant to be cleaned and reused many times over many miles.  Their warranty is for 1 million
miles of use or 10 years, whichever comes first.  This one cost $50.99 [in June 2007], which is less than the cost of
2 Crosland filters.  It's an environmentally friendly choice as well, since these don't end up in the trash stream
nearly as often as the original equipment filters would.
     The recommended cleaning cycle is between 50K and 100K miles of use, depending on how dusty your conditions
are.  K&N cleaning kits are available online or at any auto parts store that carries the K&N line.  The kits are easy
to find and are relatively inexpensive.
     After all of this effort, I want to make sure that anyone else who might work on the car and who may remove the
air filter is warned that they shouldn't "just toss it and put in a new one while I've got it out."


Step 8 - Pop the ring in the open end and put the "reengineered" K&N into the motorcar
Pop the centering ring into the K&NInstall in the compartment & replace nut
The centering ring fits just perfectly in these filters.  I carefully slid the filter down over the mounting rod and into the chamber followed by
putting the centering ring back on and screwing on the double ended mounting nut.  You will notice that the small hose I mentioned back
in Step 1 is tucked down and out of the way still.


Step 9 - External K&N Sticker on filter housing and reassembly
External K&N StickerReassembly
K&N also supplies 2 stickers that can be put on external surfaces to let someone know that their products lurk inside.  I thought it was very useful to put one
on the filter housing (and it can be very easily removed should someone wish to do so in the future). 

In doing the reassembly, I follow these steps:
         
                1)  Get the filter housing back in and the knurled mounting knob started into the mounting nut, but leave it all loose for now.
                2)  Reattach the small hose that rests beneath the air intake hose with its clamp.
                3)  Remove the air intake hosing from the filter housing.
                4)  Position the filter housing correctly and tighten things down well.
                5)  Check to ensure that the seal where the filter meets the housing is tight all around.  It should be, but may not be if you cut your cork legs too short.
                6)  Reattach the intake hosing to the filter housing.  This can be done with the housing in place if the clamp correctly placed to allow access to the screw.
                7)  Reassemble the opposing end of the air intake hose as it was when you started.


Step 10 - Celebrate task completion with a Gin & Tonic!  [or substitute your favorite celebration method.  Please celebrate responsibly!]

Postscript: 
Shortly after posting these instructions, someone contacted me expressing concern that the seal where the filter meets the cover
housing might not be complete and airtight.  I have since checked and it is.  I have added a step or two to the reassembly instructions to check
the seal  these are in blue print.